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gx printing files, not with the FlashPrint software.

Tip#3: To determine if a model is causing a slicing error, load one of FlashPrint's internal testing models under File/Examples - if the file prints, the issue is with your model OR where you're exporting the. changing the file location to Desktop fixed the issue. Mine were initially going to the MacintoshHD. Tip#2: If you get the "Something went wrong during slicing" error, try changing the location of your saved. Tip#1: for using a FlashForge Finder: When inserting filament, don't stop when you feel a little resistance, keep pushing for about 2 inches 40-50mm) until you can't push any more. It's way cold outside today and the print looks good so far! I also found 4" painters tape, which keeps the tape seams from imprinting into the face of the print if I don't use a raft. I then use the glue stick and print with a raft, which seems to keep the model from warping. I add a couple of strips of duct tape front and back to keep those non-clamped sides down. I found that I can wrap the tape around the platform sides and have it held tightly, which helps. I always cover the printing bed with blue painters tape and, even when using the supplied glue stick to give the PLA (I use Hatchbox PLA+) extra hold, the heat can cause the tape loose its tack and come up as the plastic cools, which can warp the print. Printing a large object that has a wide base can present issues. I've ordered some duvatyne fabric to make a wrap for the printer sides that can velcro into place when needed. I'm liking it more and more.My printer doesn't have a heated platform, and doesn't have magnetic front and side covers to hold in the heat as some printers offer, so printing when it's cold or when there's air movement with our fans on can cause problems. As far as I can tell at this point, Cheetah3D offers the most useful modeling tools found elsewhere. For those of us who have become fond of box modeling, this feature can speed production results and modeling fluidity, tremendously. I suppose this brings to mind an extrusion "feature" request along the lines of something found in Carrara and Hexagon: a rapid extrude function where both extrusion length and taper or size can be manipulated simultaneously by means of a mouse gesture. The biggest difference is that Cheetah3D requires the use of the translate handle, (the one that will pull the extrusion in a parallel direction), while Blender allows a simple "g key" and drag manuever. Then, the behavior is much like that in Blender, when performing a similar operation. But, during a transform of a "covered" extrusion, to keep the face from crossing the center line of symmetry, the "attraction radius" of the symmetry modifier needs to be set to a number of around. Frank, you're right, the cover tool is the ticket. After more experimentation, I found a satisfactory solution. Is there an automatic way to prevent vertices along the line of symmetry from crossing over during moving with the magnet, tweaking or extruding?

I would have expected that checking "weld points" would take care of this for me, but it doesn't seem to.Īlso, when using the magnet tool or the transform manipulator (with "tweak mode" enabled) near the central seam of my model, it is possible to cross over the line of symmetry, leaving the central seam in an undesirable condition. In Cheetah3D, I am getting two separate new polygons on each side of the line of symmetry, instead of one. In Blender, when extruding a polygon that borders the central symmetry plane, its mirrored counterpart is automatically fused to the one you are extruding, so creating a "nose" from an extrusion along the central model axis works as expected, same thing in Wings3D. I'm thinking of functionality in Blender when referrencing a problem I'm having with extruding polygons on one side of a model with a symmetry modifier applied. Extruding Near Center of Object with Symmetry